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Historia.

Imagen del Sacerdote con el Santísimo, orando sus plegarias.

Antonio Bru Madroñal.

AN ANTHROPOLOGICAL APPROACH TO THE CORPUS CHRISTI FESTIVAL IN ZAHARA DE LA SIERRA.

INTRODUCTION

Zahara de la Sierra is a municipality in the province of Cadiz, located around a rocky promontory -which gives rise to a highly uneven terrain- situated between the Sierra de Líjar and the foothills of the Sierra de Grazalema.

Corpus Christi is rooted in the lands of Andalusia, as in other places, with a marked festive nature, complementing its majestic, hierarchical character. And so it was that not only did they begin to decorate the streets through which the procession would pass, but a picturesque popular revelry was associated with the liturgical festival, in particular the Tarasque, dances and the autos sacramentales (religion-based drama). Between the 15th and 18th centuries, the festival was eminently popular and participative, and the common people had a space for themselves and an opportunity to relax. The hierarchical structure that has always characterised this celebration was not incompatible with recreation and relaxation. Elements such as the Tarasque, together with farces and disguises, the giants and big-headed figures, the dances and certain “grotesque, ridiculous figures that add their profane, burlesque counterpoint to the solemn ceremony” (Lleó, 1975:97).

The Tarasque was a mythological representation, part serpent, part dragon, an allegory of human vices and of the devil, which were attacked and dominated by Christian virtues. This monstrous figure, particularly popular among the public, was ridden by a boy or girl (the tarasquillo) who used to snatch the hoods from the spellbound spectators. The mojarrillas were children disguised as demons, who struck everyone in their path with bladders. They used to go at the head of the procession, although frequently they darted uncontrollably from side to side. These symbols of vice played their part with such a degree of guile that they delighted the crowd. From walking the streets on the days before Corpus, the Tarasque became part of the cortège itself, at the head of the procession. The people enjoyed themselves so much with the Tarasque and the giants and big-headed figures that there was not much room left for devotion, as they preferred to follow these all the time, forgetting about the Sacrament. Another popular element included in the festival was the autos sacramentales, or religion-based drama. In Seville this was organised by the ecclesiastical Chapter, and took place at the conclusion of the procession on large wagons, performing along the route, in front of the main door of the cathedral in the presence of the Chapter, and in front of the buildings of other institutions.

The third characteristic of this festival was the performance of centuries-old dances, although called into question by some moralists who criticised certain movements, garments and attitudes of the male, female and cross-dressed dancers (Garrido Atienza, 1889:90). Each year, the city councils entrusted two aldermen with the task of engaging dances (sword or stick dances, saraos, sarabandes, Turkish or gypsy dances, bell dances) for the procession. In the 17th century, the city of Jaen engaged the services of gypsy dancers, several pairs of acrobats, dancers and minstrels to enliven the festival. From year to year there would be between ten and fifteen persons of this ethnic group, duly dressed in accordance with their custom: the women wearing their best, bejewelled, shod and dressed in the gypsy style, with their farthingales, and the men, dancing, leaping and playing rattles, tambourines and guitars. The town council’s interest in these dances was so great that on occasions they acted as guarantor for the gypsies to release them from prison, so that they could dance in the procession (Gómez Martínez 1995:164; López Molina, 2000:737). Dancing was present in the Corpus Christi processions until the second half of the 18th century, when it was forbidden by king Carlos III at the request of certain erudite intellectuals and prelates and of the Council of Castile itself, with the opposition of the civil and ecclesiastical chapters (Matute,1887:III-131). Nevertheless, we must bear in mind that legislation does not mean immediate implementation, as the common people, under the guidance of no small number of clergymen who lived in direct contact with them and who shared many of their beliefs and feelings, continued to practice it long after (Cortés Peña, 1989:43). Currently, as the final vestige of the ancient dances, there only remains the “Seises”, a refined dance performed by the choirboys of the cathedral of Seville.

But the festival was not only this, but the representation of the stratified society that passed by in procession. The entire social body of the city was present, as we have mentioned, in strict hierarchical order, represented by the corporations in their civil and ecclesiastical chapters, the parish priests, the religious orders, the brotherhoods of glory and penitence, including the sacramental brotherhoods, the guilds in representation of the working world, the universities and schools, and of course the religious, civil, military, judicial, university and other authorities. In addition, those spiritual beings directly connected with the protection of the city: patron saints, devotional images and relics. These made up a real treasure due to the magical power -as was believed- that emanated from these objects, and which granted the institution possessing them a spiritual power that was consistent with the temporal power, expressed in income and tithes. The city, represented by its harmoniously and hierarchically established corporations, was placed under the supreme power of the monstrance and was embraced in an internal circle of excellence marked by the official route of the procession. The procession passed, and still passes, along the main streets and squares where the centres of power were situated, carpeted with sedge, decorated with drapes, triumphal arches, luminaires and other elements that contributed to highlighting the festival.

En esta imagen podemos observar como hay una pequeña misa dentro de la Iglesia.

The presence of the guilds and trades was a substantial part of the festival, as it was of society. They played an active part in the procession with their presence, and also with dances and merry-making that contributed to the festive tone of the Eucharistic procession. An example may be found in this text, referring to Sanlúcar de Barrameda (Cadiz) in 1552, a medium-sized city, the capital of the estates of the Duke of Medina-Sidonia, according to the chapter acts:

The order of the trades in the procession on the day of Corpus Xpti shall be as follows: first, the reapers, with the Tarasque - behind them, the builders, with sword dances - then behind these, the vegetable growers, with sword dances - then the blacksmiths - then the weavers - then the cartwrights, with the dance of the reapers - then the potters and stonemasons - then painters - then the esparto sandalmakers - then the cobblers - then the barbers - then the spice merchants - then the silk merchants and behind these the Moslem converts - then the innkeepers, with sword dances - then the millers - then the coopers - then the men of the sea with the cart - then the carpenters - then the tailors - then the armourers - the Ark of the Blessed Sacrament - and all the merchants, with their candles alight. And all the skilled craftsmen shall carry candles, in the company of their trades, in front of the Blessed Sacrament”(Barbadillo, 1947:300).

This festive, and at the same time recreational, participation was preceded by a popular festival or soirée, which took place the day before. This fact strengthened the dual recreational-religious composition of the festival, which the people of Andalusia have preserved until the present. In Seville, the evening of the Corpus was celebrated at nightfall in the vicinity of the cathedral steps, where the many people present browsed around the decorations and drapes of damask and other fabrics of the houses and public buildings on the route, and amused themselves buying gifts and titbits from the numerous stalls selling nougat, hazelnuts, dolls, sweetmeats and buns that were set up along the route. Currently, this day before represents a tradition that the people of Seville hold close to their hearts; they walk along the route, visiting the altars installed by the institutions and the shop windows that the traders have decorated with Eucharistic motifs; the monstrance, ears of corn and bunches of grapes, along with a number of small images.

This festive, and at the same time recreational, participation was preceded by a popular festival or soirée, which took place the day before. This fact strengthened the dual recreational-religious composition of the festival, which the people of Andalusia have preserved until the present. In Seville, the evening of the Corpus was celebrated at nightfall in the vicinity of the cathedral steps, where the many people present browsed around the decorations and drapes of damask and other fabrics of the houses and public buildings on the route, and amused themselves buying gifts and titbits from the numerous stalls selling nougat, hazelnuts, dolls, sweetmeats and buns that were set up along the route. Currently, this day before represents a tradition that the people of Seville hold close to their hearts; they walk along the route, visiting the altars installed by the institutions and the shop windows that the traders have decorated with Eucharistic motifs; the monstrance, ears of corn and bunches of grapes, along with a number of small images.

Imagen de un ciudadano al terminar el montaje del Corpus.

The guilds took part as an institution, and their presence at the festival was mandatory, so there would be no sporadic or permanent absences of any of these even since the 16th century, and with them, the dances, the decoration of arches and the other spectacles that they supported. The carts on which the people danced, the giants and the allegorical figures gradually disappeared from the procession, although the Tarasque, which led the procession, remained. At the end of the 18th century Carlos III, the king who reformed Spanish customs, tried to put an end to such lavishness, and reduced the popular character of the festival by prohibiting all the elements considered to be profane: dances, giants, big-headed figures and Tarasques.

Deep down, two forms of understanding religion are to be found; these are merely two ways of interacting with God and the supernatural, which at that time was on the one hand represented by the erudite: intimate, hierarchical, intellectualised and concerned with the supposed purity of the faith; on the other, the religion of the people, mistakenly explained as mere ignorance, superstition and abuse which, although it could be exploited, had to be refined; it was this conception which enjoyed communal public display, emotions, and a direct, individualised relationship with the supernatural beings. This attitude, an ever-present theme in the history of the church, is in part still true, particularly in Andalusia, regarding Holy Week and pilgrimages, Little by little, the Corpus procession passed into the hands of the Church and into those of related sectors, with ever less public intervention, and ever more resembling an exaltation of the ecclesiastical and civil powers (Romero Samper, 1991:106, Rodriguez Becerra, 1999:165).

EThe 19th century continued in this direction; all the more so when we bear in mind the official disappearance of the then obsolete guilds and the divorce between the common people, who had now mainly become industrial and commercial workers, and the clergy, who had closed ranks with themselves and their close followers, faced by what they considered to be a hostile world that threatened their traditional privileges. Let us not forget that we are in the century of the First Vatican Council, which was an ecclesiastical reaffirmation in the face of a world that was becoming ever more distant, driven by non-Christian ideologies. The festival, by now reduced to a liturgical event, would continue in the line of splendour of the past, “not only by observing the wealth and luxury of the procession, but also each aspect of the personages of which it is comprised...” (Adame y Muñoz, 1849:102).

Fotografía donde observamos a un pequeño , junto a un adulto abriendo la procesión del Corpus.

Nowadays, the festival has lost the popular character it had in the past. The participation of the townspeople is now limited to that of mere spectators of a procession that operates as a showcase for many who, were it not in this fashion, would not play a representative role in the city at any time of the year. A common factor in the loss of the central role of the festival of past times is the acceptance by the Church, within the framework of the Concordat and of the negotiations between the Spanish government and the Conference of Bishops, of the transfer of the feast to the following Sunday, except in those few towns where, due to its local significance, it continues to be held on the Thursday, declared a local holiday by the municipal authorities. The saying “There are three days in the year that shine brighter than the sun: Maundy Thursday, Corpus Christi, and Ascension Day”, passed down by word of mouth over the centuries, has ceased to be real. Likewise, the sedge that used to cover the ground and lend it its fragrance is now sparse or non-existent, and the same is true regarding the street decorations and the altars. On the other hand, the people flock away from the cities in search of the beaches and the mountains, taking advantage of the lateness of the summer.

Doubtless, it still constitutes a great spectacle in the places where it is celebrated, and it still represents, although vaguely, the symbiosis between the church and civil society, typical of the Old Regime. Naturally, this celebration is more attractive in the cities than in the towns, as the former provide all the above ingredients with greater excellence, luxury and variety, achieving a colourful spectacle in which the clergy, with their eye-catching habits and adornments, and all the authorities in general, display the best of their full-dress uniforms and medals; the presence of the army, which used to line the entire route, has diminished or disappeared over the last years; all in all, an attractive, bright, colourful spectacle that contributes to endow the procession with splendour.

In Andalusia it had particular expansion and brilliance in the large episcopal cities, such as Seville, Cadiz, Cordoba and Malaga, and in Granada it became the principal festival of the year. In the first of these, the morning procession follows the celebration of the canonical hours and the pontifical mass in the retrochoir. After the mass, the “seises” dance, dressed in red and gold, before the Monstrance, the Archbishop and the City. At the end of the last dance, the mayor continues with the tradition of placing a gold doubloon in the hat of one of them. The cortège is formed by fraternities and brotherhoods, representations, secular and regular clergy and the ecclesiastical Chapter. The long retinue is interspersed by images on floats, which summarise the ecclesiastical tradition of Seville: St. Justa and St. Rufina, St. Leandro, St. Isidro, St. Fernando, the Immaculate Conception, the Baby Jesus and the small monstrance-reliquary of the Holy Thorn. At about half past nine in the morning, the large monstrance, bearing the Blessed Sacrament, leaves; a work by Juan de Arphe in the Plateresque style, with four decreasing bodies in a circular plan. The “seises” dance during the eight days following the feast, or octave, before the holy Sacrament in the cathedral.

Cadiz has its Corpus procession in the morning, which tours several streets and reaches the square of San Juan de Dios, which is decorated with awnings and flowers. The floats of the patron saints of Cadiz, St. Servandus and St. Germanus, and that of the Virgin of the Rosary, also patron saint of the city, appear in the procession. Until the beginning of the century, the custom was that the ships anchored in the harbour would lend their sails to act as awnings for the streets on the route of the procession; another lost tradition was that the Consular Corps would join the procession, dressed in full regalia, a circumstance that greatly enhanced the celebration.

The Corpus in Granada is that which retains the most ancient features; in this city the festival has maintained elements such as the Tarasque and the giants and big-headed figures, and the struggle between popular culture and the elite reached a stalemate, crystallising into the type of festival established in 1833, which included a livestock market and certain ironic-burlesque elements called “carocas”. There are two processions, one in the morning, that of the festival of Corpus Christi, which is led by the Tarasque, giants and big-headed figures, groups of pages, the coat of arms of the city, large chests and other picturesque objects. The second procession sets out in the evening of the octave day, and does not have these folkloric features. On the day before the Corpus festival, the “publication” or “Parade around the City” still travels through the city, led by the Tarasque and the giants and big-headed figures. According to tradition, the processional monstrance was donated by Queen Isabel the Catholic monarch, and forms a hexagonal shrine. Throughout the week, the “carocas” or humorous poems and drawings, derived from others of a religious style, remain displayed in the Bibarambla square. Coinciding with the sacramental festival, a fair is held; this started in the 19th century as a livestock market, and now follows the pattern of so many other fairs in Andalusia: private marquees, horsemen, etc., also known as the “Seville model” due to the renown of the April Fair of that city.

Imagen del Ayuntamiento decorado para el día del Corpus.

The same has happened in smaller towns, such as Casabermeja in Malaga, Marchena and Carrión de los Céspedes in Seville, Villacarrillo and Torreperogil in Jaen, and in the towns in the hills of Cadiz: Zahara, El Gastor and Algodonales, in towns in the hills of Huelva, and also in the province of Cordoba, where they carpet the streets with coloured sawdust, Granada and Almeria. From among these, we are going to describe the festival of Zahara de la Sierra, a small town set in the beautiful landscape of the hills of Cadiz, and which has celebrated this feast for over five hundred years. This town, definitively reconquered from the Moors of Granada in 1483 by don Rodrigo Ponce de Leon, marquis of Cadiz, was the feudal seat of the Arcos family until their disappearance. The preparations for the festival start several days before, when the men, previously on their own initiative and more recently organised by the town council, travelled sometimes great distances to collect the branches, the sedge and the aromatic herbs with which they decorate the façades and roadways of the streets of the processional route. The early hours of the Sunday see the beginning of the operation of positioning the branch bundles on the façades and external walls of the houses, as high as the branches can reach. Subsequently, the sedge is spread over the square and the three streets of the route, so thickly that the ground cannot be seen. At about midday, High Mass is held in the parish church, concelebrated by the priest and previous parish priests. Formerly, and until only a few years ago, it was held on the steps that descend to the square, using part of the altar of repose or “monument” previously erected within the church on Maundy Thursday as an altar and reredos.

Once the Mass is over, the procession commences, led by the band; next come the children who have received their first communion, the silver Eucharist banner, the pallium, carried by men closely linked to the church, the monstrance, carried by the priest with the aid of the verger and the invited priests, and the congregation. Most of those present do not join the procession, but watch from a distance. The route, a real temporary garden, includes the three main streets, where until recently the most influential families lived. When the procession concludes, the profane festival commences, which takes place in the municipal marquee erected in the square and in the main street. The bars fill with people, the many visitors walk through the town and then depart, leaving only the locals, their relatives from afar and their guests. On these days, the locals are visited by family members whom they take in, and some organise a party, inviting outsiders with whom they maintain business relationships, ties of dependence or friendship. The music group will play in the marquee from the evening until the early hours. The festival continues the following day, with more dancing in the marquee, while people take part in recreational activities. Until only a few decades ago, the children used to play with the sedge, making piles which they defended as juvenile war booty, armed with clubs made from the same material. (Bru Madroñal, 1997 and 1999).

At the close of the Middle Ages and in the Modern Age, Corpus was a festival that symbolised the conception of the world at all its levels, distinguishing the different levels and making them present by means of certain symbols. There was no dichotomy between the religious and the profane, and for that reason they blended, but did not oppose each other; the sacred came out of the temples and sacralised the public spaces in a spectacle that placed the spectator at the centre of the action (Lleó, 1975:103). The Council of Trent would respect the medieval viewpoint of the world, maintaining the harmony between the mundane and the divine, and in particular would support the Corpus procession; the Baroque period would even promote certain expressions; Bourbon rationalism would give rise to a distancing between the people and the festival which would convert the latter into a ceremony for the exaltation of the power of the church and of the State.

Fotografía donde observamos la procesión por las calles de la villa de Zahara de la Sierra.

The feast of Corpus Christi, arising from a specific experience that a papal decision attempted to make ecumenical, has never been fully accepted by ordinary believers regarding its theological and symbolic content and its iconographic expression: the Host, the ears of corn and the bunches of grapes. The sacramental mystery of transubstantiation involved therewith is difficult for the common people to understand and even more difficult for them to identify with; for that reason it has not aroused passionate devotional feelings. In addition, it should be mentioned that the Eucharist, save a few exceptions among the clergy or persons influenced by mysticism, has not been attributed the capability to work miracles, this constituting unmistakeable proof of the lack of popular devotion. With no miracles, there’s no religion, and even less popular religion. On the other hand, as has become evident, since the 18th century it has been a fundamentally ecclesiastical celebration, accommodating the established powers: ecclesiastical, military and civilian.

In spite of this, the ecclesiastical hierarchy continues to hold tight to principles that deny the facts, as revealed by the reference by pope John Paul II in his discourse to the bishops of the ecclesiastical provinces of Seville and Granada on the occasion of their ad limina visit, referring to the religiosity of the people of Andalusia: “In particular, you must encourage and channel the three particular devotions that have been for centuries, and still are, an object of predilection of the popular religiosity of your people. I refer to the devotion to Jesus Christ in the mystery of his passion and in the Eucharistic Sacrament, likewise the devotion to his Blessed mother in the mysteries of sorrow, joy and glory” (Reported by Amigo Vallejo and Gómez, 2000: 17-18). This statement does not correspond to the sociological reality: the consecrated host in the monstrance is not worshipped at all by the faithful in general; the sacramental fraternities have all but disappeared or have been absorbed by those of penitence, and in all cases, are in the hands of people that are close to the Church. The ecclesiastical and civil institutional support, and the support of the artistic heritage and the elaborate ritual have done little to win over the people. Currently, these do not identify with Jesus in the Sacrament, but with the images of the virgin Mary in some of their personifications, and in a statistical second place, with the figures of Christ and the penitents whose figurative representations incite the devotion of most of the people of Andalusia.

To sum up, the Carolean reforms, which so affected the traditional life in Spain, turned the Corpus into a spectacle-festival to exalt the power of the Church, of the King, and of their respective representatives, once the games, the dances, and the festive-allegorical intrigue represented by the Tarasque, the demons, the giants and the big-headed figures had been prohibited. After these prohibitions, the people went from being participants to being passive spectators, and to a great extent, stayed away, as the grandiose spectacle of images and the colour of the long robes and uniforms recurred year after year without the slightest change. These reforms did not go against the hierarchical, majestic conception of the Corpus festival, but against the manner of celebrating it, in an attempt to rationalise the lives and the festive customs of the people of Spain and of Andalusia. So much so that this festival was one of the few that were authorised to continue to receive funds from the town councils, while many others, even those arising from local history, were excluded.

The traditional elements which had started in the Middle Ages, and more notably since the Renaissance, such as the Tarasque, the giants and big-headed figures and the rest of the personages, went from being symbols created to maintain the faith in the Christian mysteries to being considered irreverent and in bad taste. The Carolean reforms, without the subsequent disintegration of the stratified society and the resulting confrontations of class, would never have been effective. Save highly exceptional times, authorities of all types have always presided over the processions. The common people and the guilds ended up staying away from the procession. The Corpus we see in certain historic cities retains little of what the festival was until the 18th century. It had previously meant the synthesis between what was popular and what was cultured, where the rulers and the ruled took part, complementing each other and each occupying the place assigned to them by society. Carnivalesque elements and forms still exist in some of them as traces of the past, nowadays representing manifestations of the cultural heritage, and not of culture as understood in the anthropological sense.

The people of Andalusia, like so many others, have adapted, selected and reworked the religious mysteries and rituals formulated by the Church, prioritising them, simplifying them and even excluding them. The festival of Corpus Christi as an expression of the power of the Church and civil institutions survived while it provided recreational, participative appeal, and declined when it became a mere symbolic expression of those powers. The processes of secularisation and rationalisation and the diversification of leisure options have done the rest. The festival of Corpus, which in times gone by was intended to be the festival of divine and human power for the whole world, has become, for a few towns and cities, a ritual to affirm their identity, and for the rest, just another religious feast with no particular religious or social significance.

Imagen de los detalles de los altares.

Throughout the Old Regime, it was the feudal seat of the Ponce de Leon family, its territory comprising the current municipal districts of Algodonales and El Gastor, and part of those of Grazalema and El Bosque. Due to its location between the Guadalete valley and the western limit of Penibetic Andalusia, in the late Middle Ages it was a place of trade between the reconquered Andalusia and the Nasrid kingdom of Granada, and the road between both areas passed in its vicinity. This is shown by the place names, and the Civitates OrbisTerrarum by Braun proves that it was a transit point between the Guadalete valley and the west of Penibetic Andalusia.

Until the 1960s -when the crisis of traditional agriculture commenced, and which was aggravated by the progress of the development plans undertaken at that time- the town had approximately 3,000 inhabitants, the great majority of whom worked in the primary sector. Above all, in agriculture, which with the exception of the orchards of Arroyomolinos and Bocaleones, was rain-fed cereal and olive groves, both tended without any type of mechanical power.

The remaining sparse working population was devoted to administration -municipal officials, education and healthcare- commercial establishments -family-run shops and bars- crafts -cobbler’s shops, hairdressers...- and certain industrial activities -a blacksmith, several bakeries and three flour mills, all family-run, and one oil mill. This last was the only workplace that brought together -although only seasonally- about two dozen men.

Fotografía donde vemos la estación de penitencia del Santísimo portado por el párroco, bajo los palios.

Since the aforementioned years up to the present, as would be expected, Zahara has undergone a series of transformations. Among these, we deem it of interest to mention:

  • A reduction in its population, which has dropped by almost half.
  • The declining importance of the value of agricultural production -although only proportionally- in comparison with other job sectors.
  • An increase in the costs of working the land and non-mechanisable crops, which is much greater than the increase in value of production..
  • A transformation in agrarian ownership. A considerable proportion of the land now belongs to the public sector -either due to the creation of the National Park, or to the construction of the reservoir-. As a consequence of this and of the above transformation, the type of landowner who lived exclusively on the income provided by his land, either by sharecropping, leasing or salaried farming, has almost completely disappeared.
  • The institutionalisation by the authorities of sources of income such as Community Employment or Rural Employment Schemes to reduce the effects of the shortage of agricultural work and its seasonal nature.
  • A tremendous improvement in the living conditions of most of its inhabitants. Currently, if we believe the statistics, they have one of the highest indices of social well-being in the province.
  • Due to all these modifications, which involve a radical change regarding the sources of employment, the traditional social relationships of clientelism, patronage and influence have been significantly downgraded, and in particular, the key players have changed almost completely.

The festive calendar of the town is comprised of:

  • St. John’s day -24th June-, which is the specific feast day of the aforementioned town of Arroyomolinos.
  • The Fair, traditionally held between the 20th and 23rd of August. However, nowadays this no longer has any commercial function, and due to the changes in people’s leisure preferences, it has been reduced to a sort of open-air dance -sometimes in combination with the release of some young bulls- with evening and late-night sessions, and its calendar has been adjusted so that some of its days coincide with the weekend nearest to its traditional date.
  • The day of St. Simon and St. Jude Thaddeus (28th October), commemorating the final conquest of the square by Christian troops in 1483. During the Franco regime, it had an almost exclusively pro-government content -in essence it consisted of a civic-religious ceremony and a reception in the Town Hall for the so-called local “community leaders”-. Since the democratic elections, it has been attempted to endow it with a popular character.
  • The Carnival, which since the conclusion of the previous regime, as was the case during the Second Republic, has flourished.
  • And Corpus Christi, which is doubtless the biggest festival of the town, and which -unlike the Fair- has maintained a pattern of celebration that has hardly changed between the middle of the past century and the present day.

DESCRIPTION

Anyone who comes to Zahara on the day that the Church celebrates Corpus Christi, apart from the features typical of any local festival -bustle in the streets, the mass presence of people in the bars, music played by a band during the morning, religious services, and a group playing “modern music” when all else has finished, dancing...-, may see other features that are common to this religious festival in most of Spain -High Mass and a Eucharistic procession around a circuit of streets decorated with plants and drapes-. But it will also be evident that the vegetal tapestry covering these streets is extremely thick, and in addition to covering the ground, it also covers the walls. In addition, every visitor attending the procession will see that its route is punctuated by a number of altars -about ten- which, with the exception of that located before the façade of the Shrine of San Juan, the others are located beside some of the houses, and at these the Holy Sacrament makes a stop.

The Eucharistic procession is basically comprised of the following elements: the candle-bearers, who lead the procession, the so-called Guión, a silver processional banner embroidered with religious motifs; a beautiful monstrance for the Holy Sacrament which, beneath the pallium, is carried by the priest; a band playing Eucharistic hymns, and behind these, a huge crowd of people from Zahara and other places who have come to the festival.

The material covering the surface of the streets is almost exclusively sedge, but usually mixed with aromatic herbs that grow in the same locations, such as pennyroyal. The layer it forms reaches a sufficient thickness to form a carpet with different shades of green, and the ground on which it is placed can hardly be seen.

Imagen de un mantón colgando de un balcón para decorar las calles en el día del Corpus.

In turn, the walls of the streets where the procession passes are covered by tree branches, such as ash, poplar, willow, chestnut and eucalyptus. This covering usually hides the entire ground floor of the houses, with the exception of their entrances. Moreover, drapes are also suspended from the balconies, further decorating the façades.

Regarding the aforementioned altars, these essentially consist of a table covered with lace and embroidered fabrics, and decorated with vases and flowers. Occasionally, due to their Eucharistic symbolism, ears of corn and bunches of grapes -still green, as the grape harvest is still a long way off- are placed in the vases. Also adorning the altars one may find small religious sculptures and other items of greater or lesser artistic value. Beside each altar, which rests against the wall, although with a drape between the two, plant pots are arranged.

In our opinion, the decorations of the processional route -of genuinely impressive beauty-, the streets that form it, the placement of the altars and certain features of the Eucharistic procession are, as well as the forms of participation of the townspeople in the festival, the features in which the specific nature of the Corpus in Zahara is rooted, and those which give rise to its anthropological interpretation.

Imagen donde se muestra como la banda toca el himno a la salida del Santísimo para su procesión por la villa de Zahara de la Sierra.

PARTICIPATION

In the participation of the people of Zahara in the Corpus, different aspects can be distinguished that correspond to its preparation and to its celebration, respectively. Furthermore, both include facets that coincide with those of any other local festival, particularly those held in rural areas, and others are due to the specific character of this festival in Zahara.

Among the first, and affecting almost the entirety of the people of Zahara, we could mention the whitewashing of the building façades and the purchasing of costumes to be worn for the first time on that day.

On the other hand, with regard to the celebration in itself, in addition to the religious events, friends and relatives meet in their various homes to share food and drink, the bars are more crowded than on normal days and, as happens during the Fair, the local band sounds reveille and there is dancing in the municipal marquee.

However, it is the facets related to the specific aspects, mentioned above, that are of real interest to make an interpretation of the significance and functions of the Corpus festival in Zahara. We will make this interpretation on the basis of the works listed in the typology of functions set out in a well-known work on the festivals of Andalusia (Rodriguez Becerra, 1985:25-40) and bearing in mind certain considerations about the significance of the symbols indicated by Turner (Sperber, 1988,34-15). On this basis, we will focus our attention on the way the local community participates in the preparation of the Corpus festival and on certain characteristics of the celebration itself.

Thus, simple observation reveals that although, in general, all the townspeople take part in the festival, they do so differently, depending on their age, where they live, their gender and their social status.

For example, the participation of the children in the festival commences several days before, and until not so many years ago, they continued to participate for some days after it officially concluded. Obviously, their participation was by means of games -as we all know, a powerful means of culturalisation-. So, in Zahara, toys were made and games played that were directly related to the Corpus.

The toys in question are a type of whip or riding crop -locally called cachiporras or clubs- that are made of sedge, as soon as the first sedge is brought to the houses, days before the festivities.

During the two days when the streets remain decorated, the layer of sedge enables the children to enjoy themselves by rolling over on the ground, fighting battles by throwing balls made of the same material, or setting traps to make each other fall over. The branches covering the walls are also an ideal place to play hide-and-seek.

Gente disfrutando en el día del Corpus.

SIGNIFICANCE.

Just like any other community festival, the Corpus festival in Zahara is teeming with significance and functions, some of them manifest and others more or less hidden.

The most obvious significance is, of course, its religious significance. This may be inferred from the celebration of a number of liturgical acts, the adjustment of its date to the Ecclesiastical calendar, and the fact that the only streets that are decorated are those where the procession passes.

OObviously, the religious significance of the day of Corpus is common to the entire Catholic world. Therefore, if its celebration has particular characteristics in Zahara, this is because it also has other significances and functions of a social nature which, although they are not always consciously present in all those who take part in the festival -in one way or another, the entire town- these have not for this reason ceased to influence the fact that the festival has taken the shape we know today and which, broadly speaking, has remained almost unchanged for generations.

Imagen de la decoración y preparación del Corpus Christi.

Currently, due to the aforementioned social and economic transformation, the search for sedge and branches, their cutting -to a great extent beyond the municipal territory- and their carriage are performed by the town council operatives for the vast majority of the townspeople, who each pay their corresponding part of the expenses, according to the quantities of each material that they require.

In any case, as before, it is the townspeople who own houses on the route of the procession who continue to maintain the most distinctive feature of the festival.

However, the preparation of the festival does not end here, as in the early hours of the morning of Corpus the streets have to be decorated. Men and women carry out different activities in this task.

First, the men hang the branches on the façades; this is carried out according to certain rules the purpose of which is that the wall should be covered as much as possible. To mention but two, the branches must be placed so that the upper side of the leaves faces outwards, and the tallest and most luxuriant placed on either side of the door of the house.

As it is very difficult for each resident to carry out the above operations single handedly, they are usually done in groups, or at least in pairs. It is therefore usual that those houses whose owners have more or less permanent employees are decorated by the latter,with or without the participation of their employers. Conversely, those who do not have this type of employees -the vast majority- have to carry out the decoration in cooperation with relatives, friends or near neighbours.

Covering the ground with sedge must also be done in such a way that the roadway is completely hidden. To do this, the bundles of sedge that each resident has stockpiled in his house are scattered by hand over the piece of ground between the façade of his house and the centre of the street. This operation is simpler, and is performed after the placing of the branches.

In both the placing of the branches and the scattering of the sedge, the Town Council plays a much smaller role than in their cutting and transport. It only decorates the Council buildings, such as the Town Hall itself and the library, and the church buildings; it also scatters the sedge in front of them and in the central areas of the squares, and some parts of the streets that are wider than the residents can cover totally at their own expense.

But the women also play a specific role in the decoration of the processional route. This consists of the hanging of drapes from the balconies. However, as in the vast majority of cases the drapes consist of quilts made of lace, it may be considered that, although indirectly, the women spend a great amount of time preparing the street decorations. In any case, the public exhibition of their artistic work is an opportunity to display their skill at weaving with needle and thread.

Other women, the owners of the houses that set up an altar, have yet another task in the preparation of the festival, as they undertake its erection and decoration.

With regard to the procession, the men play a more prominent role than the women, as it is they who carry the pallium, and the bearer of the banner is also male.

On the other hand, the families whose houses are on the route followed by the procession stand at the threshold of their houses while it passes, and then usually join the procession.

Currently, on conclusion of the celebration of Mass and of the Eucharistic procession, the festival becomes exclusively profane, with the same recreational content as any other, and as the vegetal covering of the streets is ideal for this purpose, these streets become a kind of stage where, as we have mentioned earlier, the children play and the young people sit on the sedge, talking, singing...

Gente paseando por las calles decoradas.

In times gone by, after the festival, when the townspeople had to clear away the branches and sedge -currently, the Town Council operatives do this work in a single day-, part of these materials accumulated in some of the lower parts of the town, and the children continued to play on them. For example, wrestling, rolling about or leaping more or less acrobatically...

In turn, the adults who own houses on the streets where the procession passes are, directly or indirectly, almost exclusively the real actors in the preparation of the festival, as they have to collect the materials with which to decorate the street and walls. Therefore, on the preceding days, they have to stockpile the sedge, and on the eve of the festival, the branches, which cannot be cut earlier without becoming spoiled.

For this operation, before the aforementioned agricultural crisis, those who permanently employed farm labourers and had draught animals would send them to wherever there was sedge and suitable trees -principally the orchards of Arroyomolinos and Bocaleones- for cutting and transporting.

The small landowners who had a pack animal would perform this operation for themselves, and it was not unknown for them to take over a day to complete it. The rest of the townspeople had to obtain the necessary materials by ordering them from muleteers, in exchange for payment. It may be said that these last were the only people who were paid specifically for tasks related with the preparation of the street decorations, as no material value was ever attributed to the sedge or the branches. The former, as it was usually obtained in places -the banks of rivers or streams- that were not directly owned by anyone. The latter, as the owners of the groves of trees where they were collected offered them free of charge. This enabled them to perform an act of piety, and to play an important role in the celebration if they did not own a house in the part of the town that was decorated, or if they did, to gain greater prominence.

Fotografía donde alza el párroco al Santísimo.

As we see it, the aforementioned functions are:

  • It is an event by means of which the identification of the natives with the community to which they belong -that is, the town- is strengthened.
  • Enabling an explicit demonstration of the differences in social status among the residents.
  • Acting as a way to strengthen the links between the different members of the families and between the townspeople in general.

We will now attempt to explain each of these three functions.

For the people of Zahara, the Corpus festival is the most representative symbol of their community. And to support this, we now provide some data.

The first is the fact that when a native of Zahara, or someone who considers themselves as such, wishes to invite an outsider to visit the town, particularly if this will be their first visit, the date chosen for the visit is the day of Corpus.

The second is that this festival is the most attractive date for natives of Zahara who live elsewhere to visit the town.

The third may be seen on an institutional and administrative level. The symbol chosen by the Town Council to publicise the town as a tourist attraction is almost always related to the festival in question, and in particular to the decorations in the streets.

In our opinion, the principal way of expressing the identification of the natives of Zahara with the Corpus festival is the aesthetic emotion that arises when they contemplate the decorations in the streets. On the day of Corpus, many residents of Zahara walk round the circuit of decorated streets before the procession takes place, in search of the parts where -as in the calle Alta- their narrowness best highlights the beauty of the whole. Now, if we add to this emotion the other feelings aroused by the other experiential components of the festival -both those of the present day and those which evoke the past-, it is logical that the emotional power exerted by the Corpus on the people of Zahara is greater than that aroused by any of the other festivals of the town.

In all cases, the mental impression -of admiration of its magnificence- caused by the day of Corpus in the residents of Zahara is such that it has even made its mark on their language. For example, to express astonishment at a more or less incomprehensible occurrence or attitude, there exists in Zahara a specific expression: “This is bigger than the Lord’s day!”

Therefore, even for non-believers, the Corpus is the major festival in Zahara.

But Corpus is also the occasion when, explicitly and with a certain endorsement of a religious nature, the differences in social status that existed between the different inhabitants of the town become evident. We must insist that these are not present-day differences in status but, as we have mentioned, refer to the past, at the time when the celebration of Corpus in Zahara took its current form, and correspond to that period when the land was not only almost the only source of wealth, but also gave social prestige. As is well known, this phenomenon has persisted in Andalusian society, and consequently in that of Zahara, at least until the beginning of the 1960s.

Niños desfilando en la procesión del Corpus.

In order to understand the significance of the Corpus festival as a means of expression of social differentiation, we must first consider the distribution of ownership of the surrounding land until the aforementioned years, and the group of streets covered exclusively by the Eucharistic procession and almost all the other processions held in the town.

Until the beginning of the Development Plans, the land, in general, was distributed among three groups of landowners:

  • The first, whose members were known as “señoritos”, as in so many places in Andalusia, was comprised of those who, regardless of whether they had other sources of income or not, had at their disposal sufficient land to be able to live off that land without having to work it themselves. This group was comprised of about ten nuclear families, some of these interrelated. Together, these families owned over half of the land in the municipal district, or at least of the cultivable land.
  • The second group was comprised of those who had sufficient land that, by working the land themselves, could live exclusively or almost exclusively on the income it provided them.
  • The third group was formed by those who owned an amount of land whose revenue was only a complement to their income, most of which was obtained by working on other people’s land or in other occupations. This group of landowners was the most numerous, but their social importance was very slight when compared with the other two groups, particularly the first.
Fotografía donde podemos observar el Palio, el cual es transportado por fieles, donde bajo el, el Santísimo procesiona por la villa.

Also, the route followed by the procession is comprised of two squares and three streets, and in our opinion, enjoys a certain superiority over the remainder of the streets of the town. This superiority, as we see it, is evident in that said route, particularly the two squares and the street linking them:

  • Act as -forgive the expression- the town centre. Thus, the most important buildings from the religious, political-administrative, economic, cultural and recreational points of view are located here. There is a church in each of the squares, and also the Town Hall in one of them. Also to be found in the squares and the street directly linking them are the banks, the Cultural Centre and most of the hotel and catering businesses. The other two streets have also been places of note, but naturally without reaching the same level. It was in one of these that the first savings bank of the town was opened, and in the other, the first cinema and the Civil Guard police station, until it was relocated to the outskirts.
  • All of these were the first to be paved with cement. The remainder continued with their original cobblestones for almost twenty years.
  • In many cases, a rise in social status of a native of Zahara results in the purchase of a home in one of the streets or squares through which the procession passes, or in their vicinity.
  • And what is even more revealing, of the approximately ten landowners of the first group, most own a home, and in some cases, other additional buildings in this part of the town, where moreover, more landowners of the other two groups live than families that have no land. Meanwhile, in the rest of the town, the proportion of landowners compared with non-landowners who lived there was considerably lower.

Therefore, we consider that in principle, the Corpus festival was the occasion and the instrument used by the landowners to blatantly display their superior status over the non-landowners. Due to the aforementioned socio-economic changes, it may be said that currently, this function of the Corpus is a fossil. However, in the streets where the Eucharistic procession passed, not everyone who lived there was a great landowner, and in some instances, not even a small landowner. Why, then, were all the façades decorated, including those which were not homes? We believe it was for aesthetic or religious reasons, or mere imitation.

Without a doubt, the extraordinary aesthetic effect caused by the decorations of the façades and the roadway can only be achieved by decorating the entirety of the processional route. The placing of branches and sedge exclusively outside the homes of the landowners would bring about a lack of continuity that would make this impossible. It was necessary for all the buildings to be decorated.

Also, it should not be forgotten that the cost in labour and money entailed in the decoration of a house, especially if the façade is not sizeable -as was usually the case of the small landowners or those who had no land- neither was, nor is, excessive. Taking this into account, by decorating their façades and section of street, these families -some of them with very limited resources- could take part in the festival in a similar way as, or exactly like, the wealthiest, and take the opportunity to be seen, although unrealistically, as their equals, and consequently superior to those who lived in other parts of the town. Furthermore, as religious feelings intervened, they would spare no effort (their way of thinking, due to these feelings, might be something like: “If the Lord goes past our house, it must look just like the rest”).

Detalles de un mantón de croché.

In contrast to this interpretation, it may be objected that, although to a lesser extent, there were also landowners -including some of those belonging to what we have called the first group- who lived apart from the established processional route, and who might, in order to display their superiority as well, press for the establishment of a rota for the streets forming the route of the Eucharistic procession. In this way, they and their neighbours would also have the opportunity to decorate their houses. We do not know if this type of pressure ever took place; anyway, if it did, it never had any effect.

In any case, there is another factor that may also have contributed to the processional route being rigidly established as we now know it. This is because it is the only series of streets that enable the plotting of a continuous vegetal carpet.

However, we believe that the factor determining that the series of streets decorated is always the same is sociological. This path is that invariably followed by the other most solemn procession celebrated in Zahara, that of the Holy Entombment.

Conversely, other processions usually vary at least part of their route, in order to pass through other streets of the town.

As we have already mentioned, all the residents of the streets on the route of the Corpus procession, by decorating their houses, in spite of the great differences in status between them, appeared before the other residents of the town as equals. Possibly for this reason, the great landowners, with the corresponding ecclesiastic endorsement, found the way to stand out. This was the placing outside their doors of the aforementioned altars, for the Blessed Sacrament to make a stop. With these, we have the repetition of a religious element and a symbol of social differentiation in the festival itself.

On the other hand, in the same way that the decoration of their façades and their section of street equalled that of all those who owned a house on the processional route, the erection of altars expressed equality among those who installed them, over and above the differences in fortune prevailing between them.

Fotografía donde podemos observar los niños que están preparados para desfilar en la procesión del Corpus.

We are aware that some altars -two or three- are, and also previously were, erected in front of houses that did not belong to great landowners, and that some of the latter never had an altar in front of their houses. However, this does not invalidate the explanation we suggest concerning the origin of their generality. The granting of an altar was, and still is, exclusively in the power of the parish priest. For this reason, a certain influence or ascendancy over the priest was sufficient to achieve it. It is therefore no wonder that the houses that possess an altar, and neither belong nor have belonged to great landowners, belong -or have belonged- to people closely linked to the parish by a professional relationship or by an -at least apparently- unblemished religiosity.

Besides, we know that the great landowner -whose religious convictions were well known- whose home did not possess an altar also highlighted -maybe unintentionally- his membership of the local socio-economic elite through religious, and more specifically, Eucharistic means. However, he did this with a singular, almost exclusive touch. We know that it was this person who purchased the famous altar of repose or Monument where the Sacrament is displayed from Maundy Thursday to Good Friday. In so doing, there was no need at all to erect an altar at his door at Corpus.

As a consequence of the socio-economic changes arising in Zahara since the aforementioned 1960s, changes have occurred in the distribution of the altars. These changes, as may be inferred from our observation, respond to the following rules:

  1. The house where an altar is erected retains the right to maintain it after the persons who lived there have changed their address to a location away from the processional route. Thus, the new owner, should he so wish, may continue to erect it.
  2. In the event that the new owner should decide not to continue with its erection, a near neighbour may erect it in front of his home.

As a matter of interest, we might add that between the 1960s and the present, the number of altars has not changed, although their distribution has. We set out below the previous distribution and that of the present day:

Incidentally, in the Eucharistic procession there are two other features that corroborate our interpretation that one of the functions of the Corpus festival is a display of status.

LOCATIONS 1960s PRESENT
Plaza de España 2 1
Calle San Juan 2 2
Square 1 2
Calle Ronda 1 2
Calle Alta 4 3
Total 10 10

One is that the family name of the bearer of the banner -the Guión-, a prominent figure in the composition of the cortège, is that of one of the families of the first group of landowners which, exclusively and generation after generation, has performed this task (Pérez Regordán, 1987 :14). The other is that the bearers of the pallium are persons from a different social sector from those who carry the floats of the images of the processions held in the town, and these do not work the land. Currently, those who bear the pallium are craftsmen -traditionally, distinguished manual workers-, administrative staff, local council employees, etc. Previously, according to my information, they used to be landowners. Conversely, those who carry the thrones of the images are manual farm labourers, or labourers of professional qualifications that -at least supposedly- are lower than those of the craftsmen. This means that bearing the pallium also entails the recognition of a certain social status.

Imagen de un altar preparado para el día del Corpus.

Finally, as we have mentioned above, the third social function of the Corpus festival is that of a vehicle by means of which the bond between family members -in the broad sense-, between neighbours and between the entire local community is strengthened.

The decoration of the façades, due to its requiring the cooperation of at least two people, is an opportunity for family members or friends to come and help the owners of the houses. It is therefore an opportunity to strengthen the bonds of solidarity between all of them, especially if one bears in mind the festive context, the identification of the town with the festival and, for many, its religious significance. In any case, it should be mentioned that the work involved in decorating, in spite of requiring a certain physical effort, is not usually considered tedious or annoying by most of those who carry it out, due to the participation in the festival that it implies. For this reason, there are no residents of the streets on the route of the procession who, having the opportunity to participate in said work, do not do so.

The decoration of the streets is likewise a factor that strengthens the bond between all the townspeople. Thus, on the one hand, those whose homes are set apart from the processional route and who work on the decoration of their employers’ houses, or on the tasks undertaken by the Town Council in the aforementioned series of streets, also participate -although in exchange for payment- in the preparation of the festival in exactly the same way as if they lived in the part of the town where it takes place.

On the other hand, as the decoration of the streets represented an outlay for the part of the community which, in theory or in fact, had a greater financial capacity, the Corpus festival might be, due to its recreational nature, the symbolic price that said part of the community had to pay the other part, the economically less fortunate part, in exchange for allowing them to display their superior status. Perhaps in this way a social balance has been achieved due to which nobody, to date, has seriously called into question the manner in which the festival is celebrated or suggested its transfer to another part of the town.

We cannot end this article without acknowledging that in the analysis of the festival in question, some of the aspects of its celebration have been left aside; doubtless these would throw more light on the anthropological meaning of the celebration.

Fotografía donde se ve como procesiona el Santísimo por las calles de la villa, por sus verdes calles, decoradas por los ciudadanos de la villa.

Firstly, we have dispensed with the chronology over which the festival has acquired the structure that we know today. This task would entail research efforts beyond those we have employed, as we stated at the beginning. However, these efforts have enabled us to discover certain modifications that have taken place from the conclusion of the Civil War to the present day, these being:

  1. The extension of the celebrations to the day following the Thursday, a change that occurred at the beginning of the post-war period. We cannot specify the reasons that brought about this extension of the festival, but it is certainly true that all its functions and significance were strengthened at no extra cost.
  2. The procession has a less rigid makeup. Currently, the Sacrament is followed by the congregation en masse, without any special order. Previously, behind the candle-bearers who led the way, the boys followed in one line, and the girls in another. These were followed by the women, in two lines. Behind them came the banner (Guión), and then the Sacrament, followed by the Town Council. Immediately behind these came the band, and finally the men, in a disorganised group. By the way, this gender- and age-based disposition was also that generally followed when attending church services in the parish throughout the year. It should not be forgotten that the aforementioned Town Council also attended the most solemn services, those of Holy Week, in a preferential position reserved for them.
  3. As has been mentioned, the Town Council now plays a more significant role in the preparation of the festival, and specifically in the decoration of the streets. Visually, this has resulted in an almost total uniformity of the decorations of the walls, as the branches provided are all from eucalyptus trees.
  4. 4. Until the application of the agreements of the Second Vatican Council, the religious content of the Corpus festival was also extended to the evening. At that time, from the previous day and for another seven days, the Octave was celebrated.
  5. The transfer of the festival to the Sunday, resulting from the last alteration of the liturgical calendar. On the occasion of this transfer, the evening procession of the Virgin of the Rosary, which until the 1950s was held on the Thursday, was reinstated to the Monday.

As we see it, the fact that the festival has adapted to the change of day with no signs of reticence from anyone or any symptoms of decadence, confirms our idea, mentioned above, that it is its religious significance that has the greatest relevance at a conscious level, and therefore acts as a support -or, if we prefer, a pretext- for the rest of its functional influence and significance.

Finally, we should point out that in this article we have not mentioned the fact that this method of celebrating the festival, at least regarding the decoration of the streets, is emulated in Algodonales and in El Gasto. This, in our opinion, must bear some relation to the fact that the administration of both these towns depended on Zahara until the 19th century. To support this, we can state that no attempt at imitation is made by Grazalema or Prado del Rey, which, although they are neighbouring towns, did not depend on Zahara.

Imagén de la salida del Santísimo de la Iglesia.